As a long-time coin collector and numismatic researcher, one of the questions I‘m most frequently asked is "What‘s my old quarter worth?" And while the answer always depends on the specific coin, I find myself discussing 1944 Washington quarters more often than almost any other issue.
There‘s a good reason for that. These 90% silver coins from the heart of the World War II era have become increasingly popular with collectors in recent years. Not only are they highly valued for their precious metal content, but they also offer an intriguing range of varieties, errors, and condition rarities to keep numismatists on their toes.
In this in-depth guide, I‘ll peel back the curtain on 1944 quarter values and share some insider knowledge on how to determine exactly what your coin is worth. We‘ll examine all the key factors that impact value, take a deep dive into the coin‘s history and mintage, and reveal some of the most valuable examples ever sold. Whether you‘re a seasoned collector or just stumbled upon some old quarters in your change jar, this article will give you the tools to value your coins like a pro.
A Brief History of the 1944 Washington Quarter
First, a little background. The Washington quarter series began in 1932, timed to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the first president‘s birth. It replaced the previous Standing Liberty quarter design, which had proven difficult to strike up fully and was prone to rapid wear.
The new quarter, designed by sculptor John Flanagan, featured a bold left-facing portrait of George Washington on the obverse, with a modernized eagle and wreath design on the reverse. It underwent a few small tweaks in its first few years, but by 1944 the design had settled into the iconic form still widely recognized today.
All quarters minted in 1944 are composed of 90% silver and 10% copper, with a total weight of 6.25 grams and a diameter of 24.3 millimeters. This 90% silver composition was the standard for all U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars from the mid-19th century until 1964.
Mintages and Relative Rarity
In total, the U.S. Mint struck 132,117,600 quarters across all three mints in 1944. That‘s a sizable output compared to most pre-war years, but still only about a third of the total that would be achieved a decade later as the post-war economic boom hit full stride.
Here‘s the breakdown by individual mint facility:
| Mint | Mintage | Mint Mark |
|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia | 104,956,000 | (none) |
| Denver | 14,600,800 | D |
| San Francisco | 12,560,000 | S |
As you can see, the Philadelphia Mint accounted for the vast majority of production, with its output dwarfing the two branch mints combined. This is typical for most years in the Washington quarter series.
While over 132 million quarters is a lot of coins by any measure, it‘s important to remember that only a small fraction of the original mintage has survived to the present day. Millions were melted for their silver content over the years, particularly during the run-up in precious metals prices in 1979-1980. Millions more simply wore out in circulation or were lost.
Today, even the most common 1944 quarters in circulated condition can be considered scarce compared to modern issues. And in high Mint State grades, they are downright rare. Only a minuscule percentage of the original mintage has survived in pristine uncirculated condition, creating immense value for registry-quality examples.
Factors That Determine Value
Now that we‘ve set the historical stage, let‘s dive into the nitty-gritty of what makes a 1944 quarter valuable. Through years of coin show attendance, auction tracking, and discussions with fellow numismatists, I‘ve identified three primary factors that drive the value of these classic silver coins:
- Mint mark
- Condition (grade)
- Variety or error status
We‘ll look at each of these elements in turn.
Mint Mark
As we saw above, 1944 quarters were struck at three different mint facilities: Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco. The location of origin can have a significant impact on value, especially in higher grades.
Philadelphia-minted quarters have no mint mark and were produced in by far the greatest numbers. Denver and San Francisco coins are marked with a "D" or "S" respectively on the reverse, just below the eagle‘s tail. In circulated grades, all three mints are valued about the same. But in Mint State, the lower-mintage D and S coins command increasing premiums.
Condition (Grade)
Even more important than mint mark is the condition or grade of your coin. Quarters saw heavy commercial use in the 1940s, so the typical survivor is well-worn, grading Good (G-4) to Fine (F-12). Coins in this range are termed "low-grade" by collectors.
Nicer circulated examples, grading Very Fine (VF-20) to About Uncirculated (AU-50), are scarcer and more valuable. These "middle-grade" coins show less wear and more design detail.
At the top of the value pyramid are Mint State (MS) quarters, representing coins that never entered circulation. These range from "slider" coins barely meeting the uncirculated standard (MS-60) to flawless gems (MS-65 or better).
The difference in value between these grade levels can be immense. The same 1944 quarter that trades for $5 or $6 in well-worn G-4 could be worth $50, $500, or $5,000 in pristine MS-66 or above.
To give you a more granular sense of how grade impacts 1944 quarter values, check out the detailed charts below. Figures represent average retail asking prices as of 2023.
Circulated Grades
| Grade | 1944 | 1944-D | 1944-S |
|---|---|---|---|
| Good (G-4) | $5.75 | $5.75 | $5.75 |
| Very Good (VG-8) | $5.75 | $5.75 | $5.75 |
| Fine (F-12) | $5.75 | $5.75 | $5.75 |
| Very Fine (VF-20) | $5.75 | $5.75 | $5.75 |
| Extra Fine (EF-40) | $5.75 | $5.75 | $5.75 |
| About Uncirculated (AU-50) | $8 – $13 | $8 – $13 | $8 – $13 |
Mint State Grades
| Grade | 1944 | 1944-D | 1944-S |
|---|---|---|---|
| MS-60 | $9 – $16 | $14 – $16 | $14 – $16 |
| MS-61 | $9 – $18 | $15 – $18 | $15 – $18 |
| MS-62 | $9 – $21 | $18 – $21 | $18 – $21 |
| MS-63 | $11 – $24 | $20 – $24 | $20 – $24 |
| MS-64 | $15 – $28 | $23 – $28 | $23 – $28 |
| MS-65 | $30 – $60 | $32 – $60 | $42 – $60 |
| MS-66 | $54 – $88 | $68 – $88 | $68 – $88 |
| MS-67 | $286 – $338 | $240 – $286 | $286 – $370 |
| MS-68 | $8,120 – $16,800 | N/A | N/A |
As you can see, the spread between grades becomes more pronounced in the uncirculated range. While an MS-63 example might be worth $20 or so, the same coin in MS-67 could bring 10 times that or more.
The stratospheric prices sometimes achieved for ultra-grade gems never fail to amaze me. In 2013, a magnificent MS-68 1944 quarter sold for $16,800 at auction, setting a record for the date. While not quite as perfect, MS-67 coins also routinely sell for mid-four-figures when they cross the block.
Of course, such immaculate coins are exceedingly rare. PCGS, the leading third-party grading service, has certified just 2 examples in MS-68, along with 16 in MS-67. To put that in perspective, they‘ve graded over 1,700 1944 quarters in all grades combined. So only about 1% of all submissions have earned these coveted top marks.
Varieties and Errors
The final major factor in determining a 1944 quarter‘s value is the presence of any notable varieties or errors. While the Philadelphia Mint in particular did a good job with quality control that year, interesting oddities do pop up from time to time.
Some of the most dramatic (and valuable) are off-metal strikes. These occur when a coin is accidentally struck on the wrong kind of planchet. For instance, a few 1944 quarters have surfaced on zinc-coated steel planchets intended for cents, or copper-nickel planchets made for nickels.
The visual effect of these wrong-planchet errors is startling and immediately obvious to the eye. They are also exceedingly rare, with only a handful known across all mints. Values typically start in the mid-four-figures and rapidly escalate from there.
In 2013, a Philadelphia Mint quarter incorrectly struck on a steel cent planchet caused a sensation when it crossed the auction block, realizing $16,200. The coin was graded MS-66 by NGC and exhibited dramatic zinc oxide spotting on the surface. According to the auction cataloger, it was a "unique, previously unknown off-metal error" – the kind of thing numismatists dream about.
Other coveted varieties include double-die errors showing clear doubling in the lettering or date, as well as repunched mint marks with remnants of an errant first punch visible under the primary letter. These are more available than off-metal strikes but still rare enough to generate substantial collector interest. Circulated examples often bring healthy three-figure prices.
Grading and Authentication
With so much value on the line, it‘s crucial that collectors and dealers have a reliable way to determine a coin‘s condition. That‘s where the grading standards established by the American Numismatic Association (ANA) come in.
The ANA‘s 70-point Sheldon Scale, first developed in the 1940s, assigns a numeric grade to a coin based on its level of preservation. The scale starts at 1 (Poor) and goes up to 70 (Perfect Uncirculated). Grades are further broken down into subcategories like Good (G), Very Good (VG), Fine (F), Very Fine (VF), Extra Fine (EF), About Uncirculated (AU), and Mint State (MS).
Over the years, these standards have been refined and codified in great detail, with precise definitions laid out for each grade level. In general, the higher numbers represent coins with less wear, fewer marks, and more original luster.
While serious numismatists train for years to accurately grade coins, it‘s not an exact science. There is always some element of subjectivity involved. That‘s why I recommend having any valuable coin authenticated and graded by a trusted third-party service like PCGS or NGC.
These independent companies have teams of expert graders who examine each coin under high magnification, assessing its condition against the ANA standards. Coins are then encapsulated in a sonically-sealed plastic holder with the assigned grade, a unique certification number, and a barcode for easy verification. This process, known as "slabbing," gives buyers confidence in the coin‘s grade and can often boost its value.
Reputable dealers (including those referenced in the price charts above) typically base their sight-unseen offers on a coin‘s third-party grade. With raw (ungraded) coins, there‘s more burden on the buyer to determine the coin‘s true condition.
While you don‘t need to be an expert grader to dabble in 1944 quarters, it does help to know some of the key things to look for. Here are a few quick tips:
- Pay attention to wear on Washington‘s hair, cheek, and ear. These high points will show wear first.
- Check the eagle‘s breast and wing feathers on the reverse. Sharper detail indicates a higher grade.
- Look for detracting marks, scratches, or dings on the surface. More or larger marks mean a lower grade.
- A coin with original, flashy luster is more desirable than one that‘s dull or dingy.
- Watch out for cleaning or other artificial surface enhancement. These can permanently impair a coin‘s value.
If you‘re buying raw coins, it‘s also important to be on the lookout for counterfeits and alterations. Unfortunately, with the kind of money involved in rare 1944 quarters, there are plenty of fakes out there.
Suspect coins may be struck from counterfeit dies, have altered mint marks, or show signs of being cast rather than minted. Spotting these phony coins takes a trained eye, but I always recommend a simple "trust but verify" approach. Any reputable seller should allow you to return a coin for a full refund if it proves to be inauthentic.
The Bottom Line
I‘ve been collecting and studying coins for the better part of five decades now, and I‘m still amazed at the history and value wrapped up in these little pieces of silver we call 1944 quarters. Whether you‘re drawn to them for their precious metal content, their numismatic significance, or their sheer eye appeal, there‘s no denying the enduring popularity of the series.
Of course, with any collectible, knowledge is power. I hope this in-depth guide has given you a solid foundation for understanding what your 1944 quarter might be worth, and why. Remember, key factors like mint mark, condition, and variety can make a huge difference in value.
If you take away one piece of advice from this old numismatist, let it be this: buy the best coin you can afford, from the most reputable source you can find. Focus on problem-free coins with attractive eye appeal. And don‘t forget to have them certified by a trusted grading service if you‘re spending significant money.
Most importantly, collect what you love. At the end of the day, these coins are pieces of history to appreciate and preserve for future generations. The fact that some of them happen to be worth a small fortune is just the icing on the cake.
Happy hunting!
