What are the Parts of a Bathtub Drain Called?

Having trouble with your bathtub drain? Don‘t worry, I‘ve got you covered! As a home improvement expert who has installed and repaired countless drains, I‘m going to walk you through everything you need to know about the parts of a bathtub drain. Consider me your drain anatomy professor! Grab a wrench and let‘s get learning.

An Overview of Bathtub Drain Assemblies

The bathtub drain assembly is made up of several components that work together to let water flow out of the tub. Here‘s a quick overview of the pieces:

• Drain outlet – The hole at the bottom of the tub where water exits

• Drain body – Curved piece of pipe connecting drain hole to tailpiece

• Tailpiece – Straight pipe between drain body and P-trap

• P-trap – Curved U-pipe that holds water to block sewer gases

• Stopper – Plug inside drain that seals it closed

• Trip lever – Arm that operates stopper mechanism

• Overflow plate – Finishing cover around drain hole

• Overflow drain – Additional drain if tub overfills

• Flange – Finishing ring on underside of tub

• Gaskets – Rubber seals between components

• Fasteners – Screws, bolts, nuts holding parts together

Now let‘s dive into the specifics of each piece and really get to know your tub‘s drainage system!

Drain Outlet: Where It All Goes Down

The drain outlet, also called the drain hole, is the opening at the bottom of your bathtub where water drains out. It generally ranges from 1.5 to 3 inches in diameter. The drain hole will have threads on the inside that allow the other drain components to screw into it. The threads also ensure a tight, water-tight connection.

Pro Tip: Checking the size and threads of your drain outlet is crucial when replacing drain parts to ensure compatibility.

The location of the drain varies, but it is often centered close to the faucet end of the tub. Having it near the faucet allows for a more efficient drain slope. Manufacturers can also place the drain off-center if the tub design requires it.

Now let‘s move on to the piping that connects to the outlet.

Drain Body: Your Tub‘s Drainpipe

The drain body, sometimes called the shoe or waste shoe, is the curved piece of pipe that connects to the underside of the bathtub and runs down to the tailpiece. It has threads on one end to screw into the drain hole and a slip-nut compression fitting on the other end to attach to the tailpiece.

Fun Fact: The drain body is called a "shoe" because its curved shape vaguely resembles a shoe heel!

On most drains, a rubber gasket fits between the drain outlet and the drain body to create a tight seal. Alternatively, plumber‘s putty can be used in place of a gasket to seal the connection.

Drain bodies are commonly constructed of chrome-plated brass, plastic like ABS or PVC, or stainless steel. Brass and stainless offer superior durability compared to plastic. Plastic is more prone to cracking over time.

Pro Tip: When choosing a drain body, go for brass or stainless steel over plastic for longest life.

The size of the drain body must match the tub drain hole, generally 1.5 inches or 3 inches in diameter. Make sure to measure this prior to purchasing a new drain body.

Alright, time to move further down the drain…

Tailpiece: Connecting to the P-Trap

The tailpiece is the straight vertical pipe that connects to the drain body and runs down to the P-trap. It provides the pathway for water to exit the tub and enter the home‘s main drainage pipes.

Tailpieces are commonly made of PVC or ABS plastic. They also come in 1.5 inch and 3 inch diameters to match up with the drain body and P-trap openings. The length can vary depending on the distance required to connect to the P-trap.

Expert Tip: Adjustable tailpieces with a telescoping design allow you to customize the length for your tub.

The tailpiece attaches to the drain body using a simple slip-nut compression fitting. This allows it to be easily removed for maintenance and repairs. Plumber‘s tape should be applied to the threads for a watertight seal.

P-Trap: Trapping Those Sewer Gases

No bathtub drain explanation is complete without learning about the crucial P-trap (also called a U-bend). This curved, U-shaped section of drain pipe serves a very important purpose – trapping sewer gases from coming up through your drain.

Here‘s how it works:

The downward curve holds a small amount of water, which blocks gases from traveling back up the pipe. Without a P-trap, you‘d smell sewer fumes!

Fun Fact: The P-trap gets its name because it‘s shaped like the letter P. Makes sense!

Plumbing codes actually require P-traps on all tub drain connections. They are usually installed below the floor level.

P-traps are sold in 1.5", 2", and 3" outlet sizes. Make sure you know your drain line diameter before purchasing. They can be made of plastic, chrome-plated metal, or galvanized steel.

Now let‘s move upward to the stopper that seals the drain.

Stopper: Plug It Up!

The stopper, also called the drain plug, is the moveable seal inside the drain body that controls water flow. When lowered into the drain outlet, it plugs up the hole and allows the tub to fill. When lifted, it opens the drain and lets water exit.

Stoppers come in a variety of styles, but most operate with a pivot rod attached to a control lever. Common types of tub stoppers include:

• Pop-up – Spring-loaded stopper pops open when suction seal is broken

• Toe-touch – Foot pedal operates stopper up/down

• Trip lever – Side arm lifts stopper via connected rod

• Lift-and-turn – Knob turns rod to raise/lower stopper

• Flip-it – Rotates around a central pivot point

No matter the style, an effective stopper fully seals the drain when closed and doesn‘t get stuck when opening.

Pro Tip: If your stopper doesn‘t fully close, try adjusting the pivot rod length or replacing the sealing gasket.

Alright, time to talk about the lever that operates the stopper!

Trip Lever: Remote Drain Control

The trip lever is an arm mounted close to the tub, either on the overflow plate or wall, which connects to the stopper by a rod or chain. It allows you to remotely operate the drain.

To drain the water, you simply pull the lever down. This lifts the stopper and opens the seal. Pushing the trip lever back up will drop the stopper back in place.

Trip levers come in a variety of styles and finishes. The most common are:

• Basic chrome – Simple chrome-plated zinc lever

• Decorative brass – Ornate vintage-style brass lever

• Plastic contemporary – Sleek and inexpensive plastic design

• Toe-touch – Foot pedal on tub floor instead of side-mount

• Flip-it – Rotates lever from horizontal to vertical

If your trip lever breaks or needs replacement, be sure to match the style for your tub.

Now let‘s peek at what‘s hiding just above the drain body.

Overflow Plate: Covering the Mechanics

The overflow plate is a round, flat cover that installs around the tub drain outlet. It conceals the drain body, stopper, and linkage underneath while providing a finished look.

Overflow plates are typically made from chrome-plated plastic, brass, or stainless steel. They often match other tub fixtures for a cohesive appearance.

In addition to hiding the workings below, the overflow plate has another important purpose – housing the overflow drain.

Overflow Drain: Avoiding Disasters

The overflow drain provides an emergency outlet for water if the tub is overfilled or the main drain gets clogged. It runs from the tub wall down to the drain body or tailpiece.

Here‘s how it works to prevent accidents:

When the tub fills above a certain level, excess water spills into the overflow drain instead of flowing over the side of the tub. This essential failsafe can prevent water damage. Building codes actually require overflow drains on all new tubs.

The overflow drain often runs through a series of holes or slots on the overflow plate. It may have a decorative cover to blend in.

Handy Hint: Make sure to keep both your main and overflow drains clean of hair, soap, and debris.

Alright, just one more component left – the finishing flange!

Drain Flange: A Finishing Touch

The drain flange is a circular finishing ring that covers the underside of the drain hole. It creates a more attractive appearance, distributes the weight of the tub, and provides excellent support.

Drain flanges are usually made of plastic, stainless steel, or chrome-plated brass. They fit over the drain shoe and fasten to the tub bottom with screws or adhesive.

Pro Tip: Apply silicone adhesive around the flange for a waterproof seal to the tub.

Installing a drain flange takes your installation from rough to refined. It‘s the jewelry that completes the outfit!

Gaskets and Fasteners: Holding It All Together

Let‘s not forget about the smaller parts like gaskets, washers, screws, and nuts that make the drain work.

Gaskets are rubber seals between components that prevent leaks. They allow parts to be tightened or removed without damaging threads.

Fasteners like screws, bolts, and nuts hold the assembly together and attach it to the tub. Using brass, steel, or chrome-plated hardware prevents ugly rust stains.

Expert Tip: Hand-tighten connections first, then use tongue-and-groove pliers for a snug 1/4 turn seal on gaskets. Avoid over-tightening.

And there you have it – all the parts of a bathtub drain fully covered! Let‘s do a quick recap:

• Drain outlet – Hole where water exits

• Drain body – Curved shoe fitting

• Tailpiece – Vertical pipe to P-trap

• P-trap – U-bend that holds water seal

• Stopper – Plug that closes drain

• Trip lever – Operates stopper

• Overflow plate – Covers mechanism

• Overflow drain – Emergency outlet if overfilled

• Flange – Finishing underside ring

• Gaskets & fasteners – Seal connections

Got it? Congrats, you‘re now a drain expert! This knowledge will come in handy whether you‘re installing a new tub or have to dive in and replace pieces.

Now let‘s go over some tips for installation and repairs.

Installing a Bathtub Drain

When putting in a new drain assembly, follow these steps for smooth success:

1. Thoroughly clean the drain hole area with soap and water.

2. Apply plumber‘s putty around the flange of the drain body.

3. Hand tighten the drain body into the threaded outlet.

4. Use channel-lock pliers to tighten the drain body an additional 1/4 turn.

5. Attach the tailpiece, P-trap, and drain pipes properly.

6. Ensure all slip nuts and gaskets form tight seals.

7. Install the stopper linkage and test operation.

8. Attach the overflow plate and drain flange.

9. Seal any gaps with silicone adhesive.

10. Fill tub and check beneath for leaks.

Take your time and you‘ll have a watertight installation that lasts for years!

Fixing a Drain: Bathtub Drain Repairs

Over time, bathtub drains can start to leak, clog, or just not function properly. Here are some common repairs you may need to make:

• Unclogging – Use a zip-it tool, plumber‘s snake, baking soda/vinegar, or boiling water to clear soap scum and hair buildup.

• Tighten connections – Drain leaks often just require tightening slip nuts or re-applying plumber‘s putty.

• Adjusting stopper – Pop-up stoppers may need spring tension adjusted or linkage realigned.

• Replacing gaskets – Worn out gaskets allow leaks, so replace them to fix it.

• Clearing overflow – Remove debris or hair blocking the overflow drain.

• Replacing parts – If needed, replace worn components like the body, flange, lever, or tailpiece.

• Hair catchers – Adding hair catchers prevents clogs from hair and soap scum.

With a little troubleshooting and DIY elbow grease, you can get your drain working like new again. But for complicated repairs, always call a professional plumber.

Well my friend, that‘s everything you could possibly need to know about the anatomy of a bathtub drain assembly. You now have the knowledge to install, repair, or replace your tub drain with confidence. Thanks for learning with me – now go get your hands dirty!