What is the Garbage Disposal Button Called? An Expert DIY Guide to Disposal Switches and Wiring
As a home improvement pro who loves helping fellow DIYers tackle projects around the house, I often get questions about those mysterious buttons installed near kitchen sinks. What are they called? And what do they actually do? Great questions! Let‘s dive into a detailed look at garbage disposal control switches and wiring best practices.
Let Me Introduce Myself Before We Get Started
Before we jump into the nitty gritty details, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Lillie Gabler and I’m a home renovation specialist with over 15 years of experience replacing kitchens, upgrading bathrooms, installing disposals, and more.
I got my start in home improvement doing projects with my dad, who was an electrician. He taught me so much about home wiring and safety. When I’m not working on client projects or writing for my blog “Lillie’s Home Upgrades”, you can usually find me gaming or streaming DIY tips on Twitch.
My goal is to share my experience to help you tackle home projects with confidence. This disposal guide is here to provide detailed advice from an expert you can trust. Now, let’s get started!
An Overview of Garbage Disposal Control Switches
The switch used to operate your garbage disposal has a pretty straightforward name – it’s called a disposal switch or disposal activation switch. But there are a few different types you may encounter.
Wall Switches
The most common variety is a wall-mounted switch wired to your disposal. Typically installed about 36-42 inches above the sink or counter on the wall, these switches come in handy when you need to quickly turn the disposal on or off.
A standard single pole wall switch for garbage disposals – Image credit to Levi Jones via Unsplash
These switches need to be wired to a 120V circuit and are available as single or double gang configurations depending on your electrical box.
Sink Top Switches
You may also find switches mounted to the sink rim or countertop. These are known as sink top switches. They activate the disposal using a push button or flip switch mounted for easy access near the sink basin.
Sink top switches don’t require running wiring through walls since they connect directly to the disposal. However, you need access underneath the sink to install this variety.
Air Activated Switches
A newer type of switch relies on air pressure rather than direct electrical contact. These air activated switches allow you to turn on the disposal by pressing a button or stepping on a foot pedal control.
Air activated switches are ideal for island sinks or other hard to reach spots. They also provide an added safety benefit by reducing direct contact with appliances and electricity near water.
Why a Dedicated Circuit is Non-Negotiable
I can‘t stress enough how important it is to put your garbage disposal on its own dedicated kitchen circuit. I‘ve seen too many overloaded electrical issues that could have been prevented by following this simple rule.
Here‘s why a dedicated circuit is so crucial:
- Garbage disposals have powerful motors that draw a lot of electrical current. Even a basic 1/2 HP model can pull 5-8 amps when running.
- Sharing a circuit with other appliances easily overloads the circuit and will trip the breaker.
- Disposals really need an uninterrupted power supply to operate properly without disruptions.
- The National Electrical Code specifies they must be on a dedicated circuit.
How much power does your disposal need? Here are the recommended circuits:
- 1/2 HP Disposal: Requires dedicated 15A circuit
- 3/4 – 1 HP Disposal: Requires dedicated 20A circuit
Also make sure the circuit is GFCI protected for safety near sinks. Following code and manufacturer requirements prevents overloading.
Step-By-Step Instructions for Installing a Disposal Wall Switch
If you need to install a new disposal switch, either replacing an old one or adding one for the first time, here is a step-by-step walkthrough to get the job done safely.
Step 1: Turn Off Power at the Breaker
I can‘t emphasize this first step enough – always turn off the circuit breaker for the kitchen before doing any electrical work! Verify the power is off by trying to run the disposal or testing outlets with a voltage tester. Safety first.
Step 2: Remove the Existing Switch (If Applicable)
Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the existing disposal switch from the electrical box if you are replacing an old one. Take note of the current wiring setup so you can replicate it for the new switch.
Step 3: Select the Correct Replacement Switch
For a disposal, you‘ll want to choose a basic single pole switch rated for 15-20 amps. Pick a wall mount or sink top switch depending on your needs.
Always match the amp rating of your switch to the disposal circuit
Step 4: Connect Switch Wiring
Refer to the manufacturer diagrams, but typically you‘ll attach the black (hot), white (neutral), ground, and disposal wires to the correct terminals. Use wire nuts to secure the connections.
Step 5: Mount the Switch in the Box
Screw or clip the switch into place in the electrical box. For sink mounts, attach the plate securely to the sink rim or counter.
Step 6: Test and Restore Power
With the switch in the OFF position, turn the breaker back on. Verify operation by pressing the disposal switch. The disposal should turn on. Add the switch plate cover and fasten it with screws.
Be very careful during first power up and test to avoid getting shocked. If the disposal doesn‘t operate properly with the switch, immediately turn off the power and double check wiring.
Pro Tip: Use a Voltage Tester to Identify Wires
Trying to decipher the tangled wires in an electrical box can be confusing. It‘s not always obvious which wire is hot vs. neutral.
My pro tip is to use a voltage tester to identify hot, neutral, and ground wires. Just touch the probe end to an exposed wire with the power on. This makes it easy to label wires correctly.
Locating Existing Disposal Wiring in the Kitchen
If you‘re installing a new garbage disposal from scratch, finding the existing wiring to connect to is key. But where do you start looking?
Here are some of the best places to locate the disposal wiring in your kitchen:
-
Check for an electrical box mounted to the bottom of the sink cabinet or a nearby wall. Wiring is often run to these ideal spots.
-
Look for a wire bundle emerging from a hole in the sink drain opening underneath. This is a giveaway disposal wires are present.
-
Inspect your circuit breaker box for a dedicated 15A or 20A circuit labeled for the disposal.
-
Review any documentation, manuals, or labels from a previous disposal install.
-
Use a toner and probe or circuit tester to verify. These tools trace wiring easily.
Taking the time to correctly identify existing wiring in the kitchen will make your install much smoother. When in doubt, don‘t hesitate to call in an experienced electrician.
Key Safety Tips When Working with Disposal Wiring
Let‘s quickly review some crucial electrical safety reminders before moving on:
-
Always verify the circuit is off with a tester before starting work. I know I‘ve repeated it, but it bears repeating.
-
Wear insulated gloves and be extremely careful not to contact bare wires or terminals.
-
Exercise caution when working on wiring near plumbing fixtures and water sources.
-
Make sure hot, neutral, and ground wires are completely isolated from each other unless connected properly.
-
Double check all wiring terminations match the disposal instructions before restoring power.
-
If you are ever unsure or uncomfortable, hire a professional electrician rather than risking injury or hazards.
Following basic safety precautions goes a long way to prevent electrical mishaps down the road.
Troubleshooting Guide: When Your Disposal Switch Stops Working
Despite your best efforts, problems can pop up down the line if your disposal switch stops functioning. Before calling a repairman, try working through these troubleshooting tips:
-
Verify the circuit breaker is on – Check the breaker box to make sure the circuit is getting power.
-
Inspect wiring connections – Shut off power and remove the switch to check for any loose or corroded wires.
-
Test with a multimeter – Use a multimeter to check for power at the switch. If it‘s not getting juice, trace wiring back to the breaker.
-
Check for jammed food waste – Unjam the disposal blades using an Allen wrench if needed. Debris can prevent the motor from turning.
-
Press the reset button – Many disposals have a red reset button that needs manual resetting after trips.
-
Ensure the sink drain is clear – Clogs in the drain pipe can back up the disposal. Clear any clogs or obstructions.
-
Review troubleshooting tips from the manufacturer – Check your model‘s troubleshooting guide for other switch-related issues.
In most cases, common problems like tripped breakers or wiring faults cause switch malfunctions. But if you‘ve checked everything and it still doesn‘t work, the disposal itself may need service or replacement.
Disposal Safety Myths and Misconceptions – DEBUNKED!
Over the years I‘ve heard some wild myths about how to use and operate garbage disposals. Let me debunk some of the most common ones I encounter:
Myth: Disposals are hazardous and can easily hurt or cut you.
Fact: Modern disposals have extensive safety features to prevent injury from the grinding blades or motor, as long as you are never sticking your fingers inside while powered on.
Myth: Hot water is better for removing grease in the disposal.
Fact: False! Always use cold water. Hot water causes grease to liquefy and cake on pipes. Cold makes grease solidify so it grinds up.
Myth: It‘s fine to use the disposal for onion peels, eggshells, coffee grounds.
Fact: These types of fibrous, starchy foods expand and cause clogs. Avoid them! Stick to soft foods like cooked veggies.
Myth: My electrical panel doesn’t have space for a dedicated disposal circuit.
Fact: An electrician can often “make” space by doubling up circuits or installing a subpanel. Don’t overload shared circuits.
Hopefully debunking these common disposal myths clears up some bad information out there. Always go by manufacturer recommendations and codes.
Bonus! Download my Handy Disposal Wiring and Maintenance Log
Want a handy printable guide to keep track of your disposal service history and wiring setup? Click below to download my log and keep it stored with your appliance manuals!
Download Disposal Maintenance Log PDF
Still Have Questions? Here are Answers to Common FAQs
Let‘s wrap up with answers to some frequently asked questions about disposal switches and wiring:
Are all garbage disposals compatible with air switch activation?
While air switches are compatible with many models, you need to verify compatibility with the manufacturer. InSinkErator and Emerson disposals generally work with air switches.
Can I put my disposal and refrigerator on the same kitchen circuit?
It‘s not recommended. Fridges and disposals each require dedicated 15-20 amp circuits due to their high electrical load. Sharing causes overload risks.
Do I run hot or cold water into the disposal?
Always cold! Hot water causes grease to liquefy, leading to clogs. Cold water solidifies grease so it grinds properly.
How much does a disposal switch installation cost?
If hiring an electrician, expect to pay $150-$400 depending on your location and switch type. DIY installs cost less, around $20-$70 for the part.
What‘s the difference between a disposal and an InSinkErator?
InSinkErator is a premium brand of garbage disposal known for quiet operation, odor control, and added features. "Disposal" is the generic term for any food waste grinder appliance.
And there you have it – everything you could possibly need to know about garbage disposal control switches and wiring in one convenient guide. Let me know in the comments if you have any other disposal questions!
For more technical specifications, I recommend consulting the resources below:
Thanks for taking the time to read this guide! I hope you found it helpful. Happy installing.