What To Do If Your TV Doesn‘t Have An HDMI Port

If your television doesn‘t have an HDMI port, don‘t worry – with a few easy upgrades you can bring your older TV into the HDMI era. In this comprehensive guide, I‘ll go over all your options to add HDMI connectivity, along with pros and cons of each method.

The Prevalence and Benefits of HDMI

First, let‘s look at why HDMI is so important. According to market research firm NPD, over 90% of TVs sold today have at least 3 HDMI inputs. Compare that to 2005 when less than 10% of televisions had HDMI.

Why has HDMI become ubiquitous? For starters, it offers major advantages over older analog connections like component video and RCA:

• HDMI carries uncompressed digital video for the highest quality image. Component is limited to 1080i, while HDMI can handle 1080p, 4K, and higher.
• It supports digital surround sound formats like Dolby Atmos and DTS:X. RCA cables are limited to basic stereo.
• HDMI cables combine video and audio in one convenient connection. Component video requires separate cables for each.
• The HDMI standard supports advanced features like Auto Low Latency Mode (ALLM), Enhanced Audio Return Channel (eARC), and Ethernet networking.

Simply put, HDMI delivers the pristine video and immersive audio that entertainment demands today. Now let‘s go over ways to add those capabilities to TVs with only legacy inputs.

Method #1: Install an HDMI Switch

The easiest way to add extra HDMI ports is with an HDMI switch or splitter. This handy device connects directly to an existing HDMI input on your TV. It provides additional HDMI outputs to plug in media players, game consoles, streaming sticks and other source devices.

For example, a 4-port HDMI switch would let you connect 4 HDMI devices while only using up 1 HDMI input on the TV. HDMI switches come in many port configurations, with 4-8 ports being common. Higher end models may offer up to 12 ports.

You can find basic 2-port HDMI switches for under $20, while more advanced switches range from $30 up to several hundred dollars. Key features to look for include:

• HDMI version – Make sure it supports latest versions like HDMI 2.0b or 2.1 for max performance.
• 4K and HDR – 4K/60Hz, HDR10, and Dolby Vision support will future-proof your switch.
• Bandwidth – Minimum 18Gbps to handle 4K video signals.
• HDCP compliance – Required for copy-protected 4K content from media streamers and discs.
• CEC support – Lets you control multiple devices with one remote.

I recommend getting a powered switch with dedicated video processing. These perform better than basic passive switches. My top pick is the Anker PowerExpand+ 7-in-1 USB C Hub, which meets all the criteria above at a reasonable $56.99.

One limitation is that HDMI switches remove a port on the TV since they need to connect to an HDMI input. Also, some may struggle passing through the highest bandwidth 4K/120Hz or 8K signals. But for most users, an HDMI switch is an easy and cost-effective way to gain more ports.

Method #2: HDMI to RCA Converter

If your television only has legacy analog inputs, you can convert HDMI to RCA video and audio. There are two types of HDMI to RCA converters:

HDMI to Composite – This converts HDMI to single channel yellow RCA composite video, along with red/white stereo audio cables. Composite is capable of 480i standard definition only and will result in lower video quality. But it will work on virtually any older TV with RCA inputs.

HDMI to Component – For better 1080i HD video, use an HDMI to YPbPr component converter. It splits the video signal into separate red, blue and green RCA cables for higher resolution analog video up to 1080i. You‘ll also need RCA cables for stereo audio.

The Portta PETDTV1 Converter does both composite and component conversion for $39.50. Just switch between the output modes. Downsides are that compatibility with 4K and HDR will be limited due to analog conversion.

Make sure your TV has the proper inputs before getting an HDMI to RCA converter. While quality won‘t match true HDMI, it does allow connecting modern devices to older TVs at a reasonable cost.

Method #3: HDMI to Coaxial Adapter

If your vintage TV only has a coaxial RF input, you can convert HDMI signals to work over coax. An HDMI to coax adapter or modulator takes the HDMI audio/video data and encodes it into an analog signal that can be transmitted over a single coaxial cable.

For example, the ViewHD VHD-H2HSAs converts HDMI to coax so you can send 1080p HD video to a TV using only a standard coaxial input. Since coax is analog and has limited bandwidth, quality won‘t be as high as HDMI. But it does allow interfacing HDMI sources with older TVs that only have coaxial connectors.

To use an HDMI to coax adapter, first connect a cable box, antenna, or other RF source to the input side of the adapter. Then connect the output via coax cable to the Ant/Cable input on the TV. Change the TV to channel 3 or 4 and it will display the HDMI video over the coax input.

Method #4: Go Wireless

Wireless video transmission lets you send HDMI signals over the air via WiFi. A typical setup uses a transmitter that connects to the HDMI source device, and a receiver that plugs into your TV‘s HDMI port. Video streams between the two units wirelessly.

For example, the IOGEAR Wireless HDMI Transmitter and Receiver kit ($179) can transmit uncompressed 1080p video up to 30 feet away. Nyrius makes a similar wireless HDMI bundle for $189.99.

The benefits of wireless are avoiding cable runs and getting HDMI anywhere in a room. Just be aware of potential limitations:

• Limited range – Signal degrades after 30 feet which rules out whole home use.
• Obstacles cause interference – Walls and objects can disrupt signal path.
• Potential video lag – Latency may disrupt gaming or videos.
• 4K and HDR not supported – Most are still limited to 1080p.

Reviews of wireless HDMI gear find it works decently for 1080p sources within 15-25 feet in open areas. Performance takes a hit at longer ranges or when line-of-sight is blocked. Wired HDMI is still better for 4K or gaming where lag matters. But wireless can be a handy option in the right situation.

Method #5: Get a Streaming Stick

My friend, if your main goal is to access streaming apps like Netflix or Disney+, a smart TV streaming stick can connect services to virtually any TV with an HDMI input.

Devices like the Amazon Fire Stick 4K ($39.99), Roku Express 4K ($29), and Google Chromecast ($29.99) simply plug into an open HDMI port to make dumb TVs smart. You‘ll have access to thousands of streaming apps with their easy interfaces and voice remotes.

Now streaming sticks won‘t let you connect external devices like game consoles or disc players. And features like the channel guide or tuner integration will be missing compared to having a built-in smart TV.

But for under $40, these handy gizmos transform any TV with HDMI into a streaming portal. If watching Netflix and Prime Video is your priority, a streaming stick can save you from buying a whole new TV.

Method #6: Upgrade Your Television

Of course, the nuclear option is to replace your aging TV with a new smart model featuring HDMI connectivity. I know this sounds extreme, but television technology improves so rapidly that even budget new sets outperform high-end televisions from just a few years ago.

For example, the TCL 4-Series 4K TVs start around $230 for a 43-inch and have features unthinkable back in the analog days:

• 4K resolution for four times more detail than 1080p HD.
• HDR for vastly improved contrast, brightness and colors.
• Roku smart interface with thousands of streaming apps built-in.
• Far lighter and thinner profiles from improved LED and panel tech.

While expensive new 8K televisions may seem overkill, you can get excellent 4K models for very reasonable prices. Replacing your TV every 7-10 years ensures you have the latest technology.

If you don‘t want to replace your primary television, consider adding a standalone HDMI monitor just for your home theater gear. Monitors come in a range of sizes with HDMI inputs to connect media players, game systems and streaming devices. Let your existing TV remain for cable or antenna watching.

Troubleshooting HDMI Issues

HDMI seems like it should "just work" when you plug in cables between devices. But occasionally issues crop up that disrupt the HDMI handshake:

• No signal – Make sure cables are firmly plugged in on both ends. Try connecting devices directly to the TV to isolate the issue.
• Cables going bad – HDMI cables can degrade over time. Swap in new cables to see if signal returns.
• Incompatible standards – Some older gear won‘t work with newer HDMI versions. Use newer cables and adapters.
• HDCP errors – Copy protection handshakes can cause blank screens. Power cycle devices and use HDCP compliant adapters.
• EDID issues – TVs and sources can‘t agree on resolutions. HDMI adapters may fix EDID exchange problems.

Remember to plug HDMI sources into your TV directly if issues arise. This will help determine if the problem lies with a switch, cable, or adapter in the path. And upgrading to the latest HDMI 2.1 certified cables often improves compatibility between old and new devices.

Add HDMI to Your Old TV

While HDMI may seem mandatory for home theater gear, there are many options to accommodate older televisions. With the right adapters, converters, wireless transmitters and streaming sticks, you can bring HDMI functionality to practically any TV.

I hope this guide has been helpful in detailing the multiple paths for adding HDMI to your outdated set. Feel free to reach out with any other questions!